Oaxaca Day of the Dead: Insider Guide + Tips For 2023!

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Thinking about heading to Oaxaca for the Day of the Dead festival? Think no more – you have to experience this once-in-a-lifetime event if you’re in Mexico in late October/early November.

We attended the festivities for the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca in 2022, and it was one of the best travel experiences we’ve ever had.

Whilst you may think a festival mourning the loss and death of past relatives and friends may be full of sadness, Mexicans use this time to do the complete opposite. It’s a party, a celebration of life, and a time to talk and remember those who are no longer with us.

If you’re not quite sure what the Day of the Dead is, what you actually do there or how to make the most of your time in Oaxaca, this blog post is for you. There’s no extra fluff, just straight-to-the-point information about one of the most eclectic festivals in the world.

And if you’re not quite sure about something, feel free to message me on Instagram, or email at jennie(@)jenniewanders.com.

Oaxaca Day of the Dead guide

There is a lot of information in this post, so be sure to use the ‘contents’ to find the information you’re looking for!

What is the Day of the Dead?

Day of the Dead (or Dia de los Muertos in Spanish) is a festival celebrated in Mexico in late October and early November. Families take time off work to celebrate and welcome back the souls of their loved ones, as they believe the veil between the world of the spirits and the living is lifted.

During the event, locals spend time in cemeteries and at ofrendas (altars), speaking with the dead, as well as talking about memories and special times they shared with them with other family members.

Rather than it being a sad event, it’s one full of life, happiness and joy. There are many traditions Mexicans follow the week of the Day of the Dead, and being in Oaxaca is one of the best ways to see it first-hand.

Expect parades, fireworks, late-night parties, performances, street artists, dancing, shots of Mezcal, giant puppets, face painting, family dinners, cemetery gatherings and talented brass bands!

Day of the Dead traditions in Oaxaca

There are some Day of the Dead traditions in Oaxaca that you will experience.

Whilst it’s ok to join in on most traditions, remember to always be respectful and observant. This is possibly an entirely different culture from your own, so it’s important to learn and listen to the locals, as well as enjoying it for yourself.

Some important and common Day of the Dead traditions include:

• Catrina makeup: You may want to paint your face like La Catrina, the skeleton lady (more information on this in ‘makeup‘)

• Traditional dress: Dressing up for Day of the Dead is common with locals and members in the parades. Expect big dresses! (More information on this in ‘clothing‘).

• Ofrendas (altars): You will see altars all over Oaxaca during this time. They’re offerings to the dead, full of photos, foods, sugar skulls, candles, crosses, drinks, prayers, clothing, marigolds and more. The deceased are thought to consume everything left on the altar to regain strength to continue in the spiritual world. You can take photos of the ofrendas, but always ask first (if someone is there) and be respectful. Do not touch anything on the ofrendas.

• Comparsas (parades): One of the best parts about the Day of the Dead is the parades! There’s no telling when or where a parade will be, so just listen out for the brass band. When you see it, jump in the crowd and follow along! Most people will be dancing, singing and sharing Mezcal, so don’t be afraid to get involved! Parades start around 5pm each evening and can go on until the early hours!

• Marigolds (yellow flowers): As marigolds have a strong scent and colour, they can be found all over the city and on family ofrendas. Locals believe the flowers attract the souls of the dead to the altars.

• Sugar skulls: These are meant to represent a person who is now deceased, with some having the names of the loved one across the forehead.

• Cemetery gatherings (panteóns): A common tradition is to visit the cemetery where the loved one is buried. You’ll see families setting up camping chairs, tables, and candles to speak with their loved ones. At certain times, there will be performances within the cemetery.

• Mojigangas (giant puppets): Giant puppets representing lost ones and celebrating life are used in the parades. Puppets can be up to 15ft tall and are hand-made, kept within families for years to come.

• Pan de Muerto (bread): A bread traditionally baked during the lead-up to the Day of the Dead. It is often put on the altars during the event to honour and feed the deceased.

Where is the best place to celebrate the Day of the Dead in Mexico?

Surprisingly, not the whole of Mexico celebrates the Day of the Dead. Some areas (such as Quintana Roo) may put up a few decorations but won’t have the kind of festivals and parades other cities have.

The main city to celebrate the Day of the Dead in Mexico is Oaxaca. Even without any festivities or parades, Oaxaca is a magical city. It’s full of colour, vibrancy, life, happiness, joy and kindness, making it the perfect place to celebrate one of Mexico’s biggest annual events.

If you’re in Mexico during the time of the Day of the Dead, I highly recommend altering your plans to make sure you are in Oaxaca.

However, Oaxaca isn’t the only city that celebrates. Some other cities in Mexico that have parades and festivities include Merida, Mexico City and some lesser-known places for tourists, like San Miguel de Allende.

Important Day of the Dead in Oaxaca dates

The official dates of the Day of the Dead are November 1 – November 2nd, but the whole week is full of festivities.

If you’re visiting Oaxaca, I recommend arriving in the city on at least the 29th or 30th of October, and staying until the 3rd of November. This means you’ll get to see some of the build-ups to the main events, as well as the atmosphere after it has finished.

The official dates for the Day of the Dead Oaxaca are as follows:

• October 31st: All Saints Eve – at midnight, the spirits of children are said to return on this date. Most families spend the evening in the cemeteries (panteóns).
• November 1st: All Saints Day – at midnight, the spirits of children are said to return. This is a day full of parades, events and parties.
• November 2nd: The final ‘official’ day, when most things come to an end. There’s a quieter atmosphere, but still some parades in the main centre.

We found the 30th of October (it was a Sunday in 2022) to have the biggest parties. As it’s the day before most of the ‘official’ events take place, it’s a time when locals let their hair down to party. Most are off work, with the next few days full of family time.

The main square in Oaxaca was full of parades and street parties. Most people drink Mezcal, giving out shot cups for everyone to enjoy. There were over 10 brass band groups playing their own traditional Mexican music! Each band had a group of people dancing, jumping and partying around them!

Make sure you arrive and depart Oaxaca with plenty of time. We sadly had a few backpackers check in to our hostel on November 2nd, which was just too late to experience it.

Day of the Dead example itinerary for 2023 (with dates)

As I’ve previously mentioned, there are ‘official dates’ of the Day of the Dead, but it’s actually a week-long party in Oaxaca. Aim to arrive in the city by the 29th or 30th October, and stay until at least the 3rd of November.

Dates of official celebrations will be going live later in 2023, so be sure to sign up for my email list to be the first to know what’s happening.

But here is an example itinerary for Day of the Dead 2023.

October 30th

Stick to the main centre in Oaxaca (Centro Historico). Head for Zocalo (the main square), Andador Turistico (a pedestrian street for parades, street artists and live music) and just outside the Oaxaca Cathedral.

We found this date to be one of the liveliest of the whole week! The square and surrounding streets are full of drinking and partying locals, with lots of brass bands, dancing, face painting, street acts, fireworks and more.

If anything, October 30th was our favourite day in Oaxaca for the Day of the Dead!

INSIDER TIP: Parades and parties start around 5pm, and go on late into the night.

October 31st

Also known as Halloween! Expect some people to be dressed up as scary characters and ghouls, but expect the streets to be a little quieter than the night before.

This is because most locals head to the panteóns (cemeteries) on this evening, so if you want to check them out, this date is the best time to do it. Head to the cemeteries after 11pm for stories and traditional tales from the locals about their loved ones.

Xoxocotlan is one of the most popular cemeteries, but you need to organise transport to get there. If you don’t want to get a taxi 6 miles out of town, we also enjoyed visiting Panteón de San Miguel in the town of Jalatlaco (which is within walking distance from the main square).

If you’re staying in town, this is a great time to get your face painted and watch some of the locals sing, dance and perform. Just remember to carry around small change and tip if you enjoy the performances!

It is NOT respectful to turn up to a cemetery with La Catrina makeup on. Only wear makeup if you are not planning on visiting the cemeteries.

NOTE: Be wary that this event is for the locals, not for you. They are not putting on a show for tourists. Be respectful, and if you’re visiting a cemetery, ask if you can join, and don’t take photos without permission. You may not feel comfortable joining a family in the cemetery, and that’s fine. There is enough happening in the main centre of Oaxaca without needing to visit.

November 1st

Also known as the Day of the Innocents, this is the time when locals remember children who have passed. This evening, you have three choices:

• San Agustin Etla Cemetery
• Jalatlaco parades
• Zocalo and Centro Historico festivities

The most popular activity on November 1st is to visit San Agustin Etla, which is another cemetery outside the city. Etla is more of an event, with traditional dancers, marching bands, outlandish costumes and unique performances by locals. There are even dance competitions and friendly rivalries, which can only be experienced with your own eyes! Think big, crazy and wild!

There’s also lots of Mezcal drinking, celebrating and love shared, and it’s one of the most special experiences during the Day of the Dead.

However, getting to Etla isn’t easy. You need to book a taxi driver for the journey there AND back, which isn’t an easy task! Most locals will be enjoying this event themselves, meaning they’re in no state to drive back in the early hours when it’s all over.

Because of this, I highly recommend booking a tour group to go with. That means your transport to and from Etla is sorted, and you don’t have to worry about being lost in a car park at 3 AM with no way of getting back to Oaxaca.

INSIDER TIP: Take a bottle of Mezcal and some paper shot glasses and you’ll be every local’s best friend by the end of the night!

If you DON’T head to Etla, I recommend walking over to the small neighbourhood of Jalatlaco. It’s one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Oaxaca, and is full of life during the Day of the Dead. On November 1st, there’s a big parade in Jalatlaco, where everyone joins in with the dancing, drinking and partying.

November 2nd

Although November 2nd is the ‘official’ date of the Day of the Dead, it was definitely the quietest. It’s your last chance to get your face painted, so if you haven’t already, use the quiet period to experience this!

Some shops and restaurants may be closed, as it’s more like the ‘bank holiday’ of the week. We found it to be calmer, with most people resting their heads from the night before, and spending time with their families.

On this day, you can head back to your favourite area. Whether it’s the main centre of Oaxaca, or the colourful neighbourhood of Jalatlaco, or Barrio de Xochimilco, another colourful neighbourhood within walking distance. Try some traditional Oaxacan food, immerse yourself in local culture, head to a rooftop bar and enjoy the day at your own pace.

There are parades in the evening, but fewer than the previous nights. We did however notice they ran on later into the night on this day in 2022 (think super early hours of the morning!)

After November 2nd, you’ll see most Day of the Dead decor being taken down. Markets are closing and street art is put away. However, Oaxaca is a fun city to be in at any time of year, so there’s still lots going on if you have a few days left!

Insider Day of the Dead Oaxaca tips

After visiting Day of the Dead in Oaxaca in 2022, there are definitely a few things I wish I had known!

• Toilets: If you’re enjoying the street parties as much as we were (with lots of Mezcal), you might be looking for a toilet. There are actually quite a few public toilets in Oaxaca City, but they cost 7-10 pesos a time, and you need cash.

• Get a hamburger! Yes, a hamburger in Mexico. You might be wondering, why are all the street food vans selling hamburgers and not tacos?! We were the same! But they’re a huge hit with both locals and tourists, and are well-known for being one of the tastiest things to eat in Oaxaca! The burgers are layered with cheese, pineapple, bacon, salad, sauces and more – and they’re cheap. Perfect for a backpacker’s dinner!

• Tipping: If you have your photo taken with a person dressed up or performing, you need to tip. Tip even if you’re enjoying their art! Some of the locals will have practised for the past year to perform at the Day of the Dead.

• Cash is king in Oaxaca. You won’t be able to pay with a card in most places. Get cash out at the Zocalo Santander before moving on to any other activities.

• Need a cheap dinner but don’t fancy a hamburger? Head to Pizza Rustica for a $1 slice of pizza!

• Don’t just stick to one area. There is so much to see and do – head out to neighbourhoods like Jalatlaco and Barrio de Xochimilco for more exciting events.

• Mezcal in Oaxaca is strong, and expensive. As it’s known as the ‘home of Mezcal’, it’s made at its strongest, and it isn’t cheap. You can buy shots from street vendors, but it will cost upwards of £5 ($6) a pop. It works out cheaper to buy a bottle!

• There are so many bars and clubs to continue the night. You can party in Oaxaca around the clock. We loved Maria Bonita for its rooftop views, and Mezcalogica and Selva for incredible cocktails.

Make-up for the Day of the Dead

It’s likely you are familiar with the make up that is traditional to Day of the Dead. If you’re visiting Oaxaca for Day of the Dead, it’s important to know what is respectful when engaging with local traditions, and what’s not.

Skull Mexican makeup is a makeup style used to recreate the appearance of La Catrina, a skeleton drawn by cartoonist José Guadalupe Posada in the early 1900s.

A drawing made to represent a wealthy, rich character that supposedly most locals strived to be. He did it to encourage people to accept themselves as they are, with a reminder that we all end up dead anyway.

No matter your financial status, which society you belonged to, the colour of your skin or background, you would end up as a skeleton.

If you want to get your face painted for Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, you don’t need to worry about doing it yourself. There are hundreds of makeup artists on the streets doing face paint for locals and tourists all around Oaxaca City.

Face paint should cost around £3-5 (excluding tip).

NOTE: It is NOT respectful to turn up to a cemetery with La Catrina makeup on. Only wear makeup if you are not planning on visiting the cemeteries.

What to wear for the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

It’s totally up to you what you want to wear for Day of the Dead, but there is one thing you shouldn’t do:

Dress like it’s Halloween at a sorority party.

It is NOT ‘touristy’ Halloween time. We didn’t see a single person in a western-style Halloween costume with too much skin showing. Yes, you can dress spookily or wear a Halloween mask, but keep it respectful!

Most women (tourists and locals) wear dresses and just their regular clothes. I’d advise wearing comfortable shoes, as you’ll be on your feet most of the day! Performers and locals involved in the parades will wear old-school Victorian-type clothes.

Lastly, most women will wear a flower headband in their hair. These can be bought on the streets for under £5 ($6). You can choose between fresh flowers or plastic.

Want more information about what to wear in Oaxaca? Check out my post: What To Wear in Oaxaca (That Isn’t Ugly)!

Visiting the cemeteries in Oaxaca for the Day of the Dead

It’s common to visit cemeteries when you’re in Oaxaca for Day of the Dead. This is because most graves are decorated with flowers, food and other ornaments to welcome the spirits back when the veil between our worlds are lifted.

The main cemeteries in Oaxaca are San Miguel de Allende (Panteon General), Etla and Panteon Nuevo in Xoxocotlan.

It is NOT respectful to turn up to a cemetery with La Catrina makeup on. Only wear makeup if you are not planning on visiting the cemeteries.

We spent some time walking around the cemeteries during the day, taking photos and admiring how beautiful the graves were. If you want to visit at night, celebrations begin around 11pm.

Budget food and drink for the Day of the Dead, Oaxaca

If you’re visiting Oaxaca for the first time, I highly recommend stepping out of your foodie comfort zone and trying some of the amazing food this state has to offer.

Here are some of the best foods and drinks you need to try in Oaxaca (all within a reasonable budget!):

• Mole: Oaxaca is one of the most famous places to eat mole. A whole heap of ingredients are mixed together to make a creamy, delicious sauce that comes in different varieties, such as rojo, amarillo, verde, negro, and chichilo. Mexican’s state mole should be treated as the main part of a meal, rather than a side sauce or extra. It’s absolutely delicious!

• Tacos al pastor: A traditional Mexican dish is tacos al pastor (directly translated as ‘Shepherd’s Style’). This taco is chopped up kebab-like seasoned pork, which is spit-grilled and marinated. The taco will then be filled with cilantro, onion, tomato and even pineapple to give it that fresh and juicy taste.

• Tlayudas: A tlayuda is a homemade traditional Oaxacan street food, so you’ll find them served in most Mexican restaurants in Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido. They’re a large, thin, crunchy tortilla, filled with an ingredient of your choice (meat, beans, vegetables, cheese), and of course salsas, pico de Gallo and everything else you’d like. They’re then folded over to be toasted on a fire, or fried. It’s a food you MUST try in Oaxaca!

• Hamburguesas: Cheap, tasty and reliable burgers that are sold on almost every street corner in Oaxaca! They are perfect for a quick, easy and cheap meal during the Day of the Dead!

• Mezcal: I couldn’t write about food and drink without mentioning Mezcal. Mezcal is something Oaxacans are extremely proud of, and you can buy it all across the city. Just bear in mind, the Mezcal in Oaxaca is stronger than anywhere else in the country, so don’t go too crazy!

Where to stay as a backpacker for the Day of the Dead

HEADS UP! If you want an in-depth guide about the best hostels in Oaxaca, check out my post: BEST Hostels in Oaxaca for Backpackers!

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca is one of the country’s most popular events, so you need to book accommodation – and quickly. Closer to the time, you’ll find most hostels are fully booked, and there won’t be any hotels or Airbnbs left.

If you’re going to be in the city for the event, I recommend the following places to stay:

• El Cielo Oaxaca: backpackers and couples who want to be in the centre of Oaxaca, with a low-key socialising option as well as party vibes.
• Casa Angel Hostel: young backpackers who want to socialise, party and meet new people to explore with.
• Hostal Central: digital nomads in Oaxaca.

Oaxaca is one of the cheapest locations in Mexico for backpackers. Dorm rooms start at just £3 ($5) a night, and average at around £11 ($13).

Even private rooms are affordable in Oaxaca for budget backpackers, with some as low as £30 per night (depending on the time of year).

How to get to Oaxaca

This all depends on where you are coming from.

• If you’re coming from Mexico City, there is a 6-7 hour ADO bus which is perfect for budget backpackers.
• From Cancun, your best option is to fly. It’s quite the distance, so if you’re getting the bus, you’ll need to make several stops en route. You can check out rates and flight times here.
• If you’re coming from Puerto Escondido, you can either fly (the most expensive option) or get the bus (the cheapest, but longest). Find out more information about these options here.

If you need more information, I recommend checking out my in-depth travel to Oaxaca posts below.

Useful Spanish phrases for Day of the Dead

If you’re visiting Oaxaca for Day of the Dead, here are some helpful phrases in Spanish that you may want to screenshot!

• Please: por favor
• Thank you: gracias
• My name is…: Me llamo…
• Nice to meet you: Mucho gusto
• Yes: Si
• No: No
• What: que
• Where: donde
• Toilet: banos/bano
• Girls/ladies: mujeres or damas (look for an M or D on the toilet doors)
• Help: ayuda
• More: mas
• Where are the toilets?: Donde estan los baños?
• Cemeteries: panteóns

Is Oaxaca safe for backpackers?

According to Lonely Planet, Oaxaca is one of the safest states in Mexico to visit. Throughout our time in Oaxaca City, I felt safe. This includes walking around by myself at night and during the day.

In general, yes Oaxaca is safe for solo female travellers and backpackers. But like anywhere else in the world, you need to use common sense and be aware of your surroundings.

Overall, we found the people of Oaxaca to be friendly, kind and welcoming. The city is full of life, colour and happiness, and even at night, I felt extremely safe.

If you’re a solo female traveller in Oaxaca, I recommend staying in a hostel when you first arrive. Even if you want to get your own space after, a hostel means you can meet other people and get to know the different areas first.

Other things to do in Oaxaca

Looking for the best things to do in Oaxaca apart from the Day of the Dead? If you have a spare few days after or before the event, there are so many free things to do in Oaxaca to keep you entertained.

Some of the best free and cheap things to do in Oaxaca include:

• Walking around the different parts of Oaxaca, especially the colourful town of Jalatlaco.
• The atmosphere of the main square (Zocalo) in the evenings.
• Live street performances every night throughout Oaxaca.
• Eating street food and drinking beers from the supermarket in one of the squares or parks.
• Wandering through 20 de Noviembre or one of the other local markets.
• Going on a mezcal and Mexican food tour.
• Drinking in one of the many rooftop bars.
• Join a free walking tour.
• Eat mole, and lots of it!
• Take a day trip to the waterfalls or surrounding mountains.

Oaxaca Day of the Dead FAQs

Oaxaca or Mexico City for the Day of the Dead?

After being to both Oaxaca and Mexico City for Day of the Dead (although we stayed longer in Oaxaca), I recommend Oaxaca. It’s a much smaller city, with a community feel and welcoming vibe, and it’s a lot easier to get around. You can change neighbourhood easily, and you never feel like you’re missing out on any of the action.

Plus, Oaxaca is one of the friendliest, most colourful and best cities in the whole of Mexico, so it’s an easy win!

How is the Day of the Dead celebrated in Oaxaca?

The Day of the Dead is celebrated in Oaxaca in many ways, including parades, fireworks, late-night parties, live performances, street artists, dancing, drinking of Mezcal, giant puppets, face painting, family dinners, cemetery gatherings and brass bands!

Most locals will have time off work to prepare and be together when the veil of the spirit world is lifted, so they can reunite with their deceased loved ones.

Where is the biggest Day of the Dead celebration in Mexico?

Oaxaca City is known to have one of the biggest Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico. Head to Oaxaca a few days before the festivities begin (29th or 30th October) to immerse yourself in the celebrations right from the beginning!

How long is the Day of the Dead in Mexico?

Officially, Day of the Dead lasts for 2 days. However, the parties and celebrations last over a week. We found the busiest time in Oaxaca to be on the 30th of October, whereas the Day of the Dead doesn’t even officially start until the 1st of November!

Where is Oaxaca? (+ Map)

Oaxaca is a state in southwestern Mexico. It is around a 6-7 hour ADO bus journey from Mexico City. It is bordered by Guerrero on the west, and Chiapas on the east.

Most backpackers visit Oaxaca for authentic Mexican cuisine, local traditions and late-night parties (it is the home of Mezcal after all – which, if you’re wondering, is incredibly strong in Oaxaca!). We were in Oaxaca City for Day of the Dead festival, and it was one of the craziest and most fun festivals we’ve ever been to!

Where to go after Oaxaca

Ever heard of Puerto Escondido? Puerto Escondido is the perfect place to visit after Oaxaca.

In fact, most backpackers do this! When we were in Oaxaca for the Day of the Dead in 2022, our bus after the event was full of backpackers travelling south to Puerto Escondido’s coast.

It’s one of the liveliest and best places to visit in Mexico and is perfect for solo backpackers and digital nomads.

We loved Puerto Escondido so much that we lived there for nearly two months! This blog is packed full of Puerto Escondido information, so be sure to check it out!

Best backpacker travel insurance for Mexico

If you’re visiting Mexico as a backpacker, or even for a short vacation, it is so important to have travel insurance. And if you ended up on a post that’s called ‘epic party tips’, you know (just as well as I do) that you definitely need travel insurance.

Personally, I recommend SafetyWing. As a digital nomad and world traveller myself, I can confirm it is the best travel insurance out there. And one of the cheapest – they have deals that start at just $42 USD per month.

I know, I know, you’re thinking ‘but I can’t afford that!’. I was the same! It’s tough to fork out $42 a month on something ‘you might not need’. But what if something DOES happen? That extra Mezcal shot results in you falling down the stairs, or you eat something dodgy from a street food van.

If you need medical help at any point whilst in Mexico, you need travel insurance.

With SafetyWing, you’re covered on travel emergencies, basic medical costs and medical expenses throughout your trip, so you can travel without worry (at a backpacker’s price!)

Don’t even think twice about getting travel insurance for Mexico. Trust me, I have heard enough horror stories about backpackers who haven’t had insurance and have ended up in a lot of debt. Don’t be that person!

If you’ve been putting the job off because it takes a lot of time and effort to research the best travel insurance companies, I understand. That’s why I’ve done the hard work for you. Sign up for SafetyWing, and the job is done!

Oaxaca Day of the Dead: In a Nutshell

So, there you have it! Everything you need to know about Oaxaca for the Day of the Dead. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience and something you must do if you’re in Mexico in late October.

When you’re planning a trip to Mexico, make sure you let me know over on Instagram or in the comments below!

If you haven’t come across my blog before, I write posts aimed at first-time backpackers on a budget. I’m currently backpacking Mexico with my boyfriend (read more here!), whilst creating guides and itineraries for you to follow in our footsteps!

Keep an eye out for more Mexico content, all written from a personal and realistic point of view. You can sign up for my newsletter and juicy travel updates here!

As always, thanks for reading and supporting the blog!

Happy travelling 🙂

Jennie x

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